THE GIBUS

What on earth is that  you may well ask  !

I first came across this word when I was reading an old detective novel,  and a sentence read                            ‘Lord Peter Wimsey extended his gibus’.

(I think it is in the book called the Nine Tailors,  by Dorothy L. Sayers ).         What in the world  did that mean !    it sounded very risque’,  but that would not be in keeping with the type of  book, written as it was in the 1920’s or 30’s as a popular whodunnit.

Out came the dictionary……and there was nothing.   So I went to the thick Victorian dictionary; which has to lie flat on the shelf, because its spine is missing.    This is because one of our dogs took a fancy to the taste of the animal glues used in its construction, and ate the whole of it one day while we were out.    Consequently, each page is now loose, so it has to be handled with extreme care .      Turning to the relevant page…there it was.   ‘gibus…a collapsible opera hat’.

My  investigations have brought to light that this ingenious hat was invented in the 1840’s by a Frenchman,   Antoine Gibus,   who realised a need for such an item, as gentlemen’s    top hats were becoming ever larger, and causing real problems at theatres, operas and soirees because of the amount of space needed in the cloakrooms for them.

BOX 29   P1/53

One day, scouting around an antique fair somewhere, I spied an interesting looking oval box, with a dished upper surface and a covering of red leatherette.    Inside was an opera hat, in extremely good condition.   This is the one shown in the picture above.   It is made by  one of many manufacturers both here and in Europe who copied the idea.   Some are made in matt black material, others in satin…and these do a very passable imitation of a silk top-hat.

BOX 29        P8/35

It was a while before I realized that the word gibus  came to mean any collapsible opera hat, not only those by the original inventor…in just the same way as we talk of sellotape, biros, thermos flasks and hoovers.

Other names for this type of hat are  CRUSH HAT ..  pretty obvious, as you crush it to your chest to close it;    and    CHAPEAU CLAQUE  due to the noise it makes when correctly sprung open with a sharp flick of the wrist.    We have several in the collection;   pride of place being one actually made  BY   Gibus,   and bearing the name  inside, as well as an address in Chandos Place, London.    Another one of these hats is in ruins, but serves to show exactly how the mechanism works, as the lining is so torn that you can see inside.   There are metal hinges and arms which fold in half, and flat,   which reduce the height of the hat from around fifteen centimetres to about two !        This made it possible for a gentleman to keep it with him, and simply collapse it and slide it under his seat.

As shown here, it really does fold right down.   The lower pictures try to show some of the mechanisms.    Neither of these are by Gibus, so  each manufacturer had its own device.

 

The principle was also applied to coloured hats.   We have a white satin one, and also this red satin hat, which must I am sure have graced the head of a circus ringmaster at some time !BOX 29   P 1/52One thing is certain…they are  easier to store than most of the collection.!

2 thoughts on “THE GIBUS”

  1. I have an old opera hat (probably mid to early 1900’s vintage). It is in perfect condition… probably due to the size being a bit small. Though, in my case, it might fit better if I can make it a little longer front-to-back. But, I have no idea what is inside the brim. Can you perhaps comment more about the construction of the brim?

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  2. I am fairly sure it is just thick cardboard !

    The reason it is a bit small is because with much better nutrition in our modern times, we are all that much bigger. That applies to antique garments too. I was at a study day some years ago; the audience of varying sizes and not one of us could get anywhere near wearing the clothes .
    I don’t think it will be possible to alter the fit of your hat as that would mean taking it apart., and it will never look as good .
    These smaller sizes are relatively obtainable…up to 6 7/8ths hat size; and explains why any larger sizes that DO come up for sale are so expensive .
    I have one in ruins which I was able to partly deconstruct. Very interesting to see the collapse mechanisms….and I know there are at least 2 different ones in the collection.

    I do hope you find this of interest.
    Yours sincerely, Carolyn Last. The HISTORY on your HEAD COLLECTION.
    If you have any further comment/information you can leave me a message on headlines2@hotmail.com.

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